BY LIT Lukasiewicz - Lodz Institute of Technology

Introduction

In recent years, the Textile, Clothing, Leather and Footwear (TCLF) industries have been in the spotlight for their relevant role in global economy but also for their environmental impact. As a result, the industry community is focusing on developing sustainable practices to minimize negative impact on the planet. These activities are aimed at that will facilitate the transition towards more sustainable industries along the entire supply chain, from raw materials, through production processes, to final products.

The TCLF industries recognize the need for action at both the production and consumption levels. Educating consumers about sustainable choices and promoting the long-durability of products is becoming integral elements of the transformation. Companies are increasingly engaging in transparency regarding their practices and the ethicality of production. Cross-sector partnerships are also a key factor when developing amenities for a sustainable textile industry. Collaboration between companies, governments, non-governmental organizations and scientists can accelerate the implementation of innovations and sustainability standards. As a result, we are observing positive changes in the approach to production, where care for the environment becomes as important as meeting market needs. The TCLF industries are moving towards a more sustainable future, and the development of Best Available Techniques is becoming a key tool in this process. Here are some examples of actions adopted by these industries towards sustainable production and consumption:

• Consumer education:Fashion brands are increasingly informing and educating their customers about the environmental impact of their purchases. They promote transparency and traceability. For example, they organize informational campaigns on clothing recycling, promote the choice of eco-friendly materials, or provide information on the production stages. Example: An example is Levi's®, which in 2021 launched a campaign to expand awareness about their responsibility for the environmental impact of clothing production. The campaign aimed to awaken our awareness of responsibility for the impact of consumerism and clothing production on the environment [5].

• Promoting long-term use: TCLF companies can encourage customers to use products for longer periods by offering repair services, providing advice on garment care, or promoting the concept of sustainable fashion, where product durability is a priority. Example: Patagonia openly says "Don't buy our products if you don't have to". Their strategy is currently more focuses on the longevity and repairability of clothing rather than constantly introducing new collections. This strategy has attracted a loyal group of consumers who appreciate the company's authenticity and ecological approach [4].

• Transparency and ethical production: More and more TCLF companies are focusing on transparency in their practices by providing information on working conditions, sources of raw materials, or production methods, such as, publicly publishing reports from social and environmental audits. Example: Patagonia focuses on full transparency of its supply chain, and as a result, consumers have the opportunity to precisely track how and where their products are made. From the moment of sourcing raw materials, through each stage of production, to the final product, Patagonia provides full visibility in their supply chain. This ensures that when consumers buy Patagonia clothes, they support practices that are aligned with the values of social responsibility and environmental protection. The brand's website illustrates as well how clothes are produced, including their suppliers [4].

• Cross-sector partnerships: TCLF companies often establish partnerships with other sectors such as technology or science to jointly develop innovative solutions to increase production sustainability. For example, collaborating with textile recycling companies to develop new methods of waste disposal. Example: An example of a company that uses cross-sector cooperation in the context of sustainable production development is Adidas. The company has entered into a partnership with Parley for the Oceans, an organization dedicated to ocean conservation. As part of this collaboration, Adidas uses recycled plastic waste from the oceans to produce high-quality products. This innovative collaboration between the clothing sector and an environmentally focused organization shows how companies can work together to develop more sustainable production methods [3].

• Implementing innovation and sustainability standards: The TCLF industries implement as well new technologies to reduce the negative environmental impact of production, such as water or energy-saving technologies, or sustainable fabric dyeing methods. Example: VIVE Textile Recycling, a leader in Poland and Europe for 26 years, is dedicated to fully utilizing second-hand clothes. With a state-of-the-art sorting technology, process hundreds of tons daily, maintaining ISO 9001 and 14001 standards [2].

Efforts to look like a company that cares about the environment also have a dark side. It is so called Greenwashing, i.e. practice of making misleading or unsubstantiated claims about the environmental or sustainability attributes of textile products or manufacturing processes. But it is a subject for another story.

The EU implemented its first conclusions on BAT under Council Directive 96/61/EC of 24 September 1996 that related to integrated pollution prevention and control, often referred to as the IPPC Directive. The BAT concept was formally included in national legislations a few years later, in 2001, during the update of the Act of April 27, 2001 on environmental protection (Journal of Laws of 2019, item 1396, as amended).

Summary and conclusions

• The TCLF industries are investing in improving their environmental impact, while continue contributing to the global economy.
• For that purpose, the industry is prioritizing sustainable practices by making use of Best Available Techniques (BAT), being crucial for sustainable development.
• Achieving sustainability in TCLF requires a comprehensive approach across the entire supply chain, from raw materials to final products.
• Key elements of this transformation include cross-sectoral partnerships, transparency, and consumer education.
• BAT conclusions are mandated by EU legislation to support environmental protection, involving stages from BAT reference documents (BREF) to adapting industrial installations to environmental standards.
• Implementing BAT conclusions translates into practical measures to minimize environmental impact.
• Adoption of these recommendations enhances industry efficiency, innovation, and environmental friendliness, fostering more sustainable business models.
• BAT conclusions serve as strategic tools for companies committed to sustainable industrial practices.
• Balancing industrial development with environmental protection is essential for achieving carbon-neutrality.

References

[1] https://envag.com.pl/baza-wiedzy/realizacja-konkluzji-bat-w-przemysle-krok-ku-zmniejszeniu-emisji-substancji-niebezpiecznych/ [access: 18.01.2024]
[2] https://www.adidas.pl/parley [access: 15.02.2024]
[4] ttps://www.sport-shop.pl/blog/patagonia-na-czym-polega-fenomen-ekologicznej-marki-odziezowej/#Praktyki-prosrodowiskowe-w-dzialalnosci-Patagonii [access: 15.02.2024]
[5] https://fashionpost.pl/levis-startuje-z-kampania-poszerzajaca-swiadomosc-odpowiedzialnosci-za-wplyw-produkcji-odziezy-na-srodowisko [access: 15.02.2024]

BY LIT Lukasiewicz - Lodz Institute of Technology