19 February 2025, COTANCE
We often hear about massive floating "islands" of plastic polluting our oceans. But have you ever wondered why leather is never part of that conversation?
One simple reason: leather is a natural, biodegradable material. Unlike plastic, which lingers in the environment for centuries, leather naturally breaks down at the end of its life.
When produced using natural or biobased tanning agents and biodegradable additives, leather can decompose in industrial composting in as little as 20 days (as highlighted in Karl Flowers’ article, “Opportunities at Leather’s End-of-Life,” ILM, Sep-Oct 2024). That’s a timeframe comparable to vegetable waste, which takes 5–30 days!
Let’s be clear: all materials eventually biodegrade, but what sets leather apart is its ability to decompose quickly (20–60 days) and safely for the environment, transforming — under the right conditions1 — into compost that enriches the soil with vital nutrients.
This unique feature makes leather not only a valuable part of the circular economy, but also one of the most sustainable fashion materials. And that’s just one of many reasons to choose leather!
Understanding Biodegradability and Compostability
Biodegradability refers to the process by which organic materials are broken down by microorganisms into simpler components like carbon dioxide, water, and ammonia. Compostability, a measure of biodegradation, refers to the ability of a material to break down into biomass without releasing harmful or toxic substances—provided it does not contain hazardous components that persist after decomposition.
Any leather can be composted, but the speed of degradation and environmental impact depend on the tanning chemistry used2 . Producing fully biodegradable leather requires advanced technological solutions, and the industry is making incredible strides in this area. But even conventionally produced European leather demonstrates the ability to decompose naturally, and studies confirm this.
Scientific Evidence Supporting Leather’s Biodegradability
“A Study of the Composting Capacity of Different Kinds of Leathers, Leatherette, and Alternatives” 3
(A3 Leather Innovation Center, Ege University, Universitat de Lleida) This study demonstrated that genuine leather, especially alginate-treated, fully degrades within 21–25 days, with wet-blue leather degrading in 31–35 days. In contrast, alternatives like leatherette, Piñatex®, and Desserto® showed no degradation after 90 days, underscoring leather’s superior biodegradability compared to synthetic and plant-based substitutes.
“Material Circular Bioeconomy: Disintegration and Biodegradability of Leather and Trendy Alternatives” 4 (Karl & Inge Flowers, Authenticae Limited)
Vegetable-tanned leather compost promoted 74% more plant growth and proved suitable for agriculture, showcasing leather’s capacity to enrich soils. Meanwhile, most fake leather alternatives showed poor biodegradability, raising significant waste concerns at the end of their life.
“Assessment of the Biodegradability and Compostability of Finished Leathers”5 (INESCOP & University of Alicante)
These findings underscore the potential of eco-friendly finishes to reduce the environmental footprint of leather production, promoting sustainability and further aligning leather with circular economy goals. Bio-based finishes showed strong biodegradability, while traditional finishes exhibited moderate levels. Notably, some finishes enhanced plant growth during composting, highlighting leather's potential for eco-friendly practices in production.
These studies prove that leather is one of the most ecologically responsible materials in the fashion industry. It manages the balancing act of being durable and yet biodegradable.
Leather’s Role in a Sustainable Future
With its ability to “transform waste into beauty,” support circular production cycles, and naturally return to the environment at the end of its service life, leather stands out as one of the most sustainable fashion materials available. Its unique properties make it a crucial ally in achieving the goals of the EU Green Deal, supporting the success of key regulations like the Ecodesign, Waste Framework, and Green Claims Directives.
With the creation of the 6 modular curricula under the Metaskills4TCLF project, our understanding of leather, textiles, clothing & footwear sustainability and innovations in the industry will soon be available to you. Metaskills4TCLF training programmes on Digital Fashion and Circular Economy, enhanced by the Meta-based Virtual Reality (VR) and Augmented Reality (AR), will not only elevate your skills in sustainability and digitalisation in the TCLF sectors, but also make you stand out in this rapidly changing world.
So, are you thinking about starting a new career or making a change to help build a more circular and socially responsible Europe? Consider joining the Textile, Clothing, Leather, and Footwear (TCLF) sectors—where tradition meets innovation! The Metaskills4TCLF project is here to support your journey with the skills and opportunities you need to thrive.
1 https://www.chromefree.org/post/a-leather-technicians-perspective-on-recyclable-biodegradable-compostable-materials
2 https://www.neratanning.com/biodegradable-leather
3 https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/16/6/2324
4 https://www.preprints.org/manuscript/202408.0691/v1
5 https://www.mdpi.com/2073-4360/16/13/1908
19 February 2025, COTANCE